Viaggioadagio.it

While enjoying some days at the seaside in the “dynamic calmness” of one of the several villages along the coast between Livorno and Grosseto, it could happen that, especially in the afternoon, the fickle north-west winds bring some threatening clouds. After the initial annoyance for the lost daily tanning, you could like to spend some pleasant hours “differently” and, therefore, here is some advice. The Tuscan hinterland hides some real treasures: small ancient villages with breathtaking views, pleasant walks and excellent cheap restaurants; I am going to take you just in a couple of these places. A comfortable street, full of twists and turns in the middle of a forest, leads from the Aurelia road to Montescudaio, the most northern of the of the “Three City-states” –Montescudaio, Guardistallo and Casale Marittimo- which mark off the plain of Cecina on the inland (Placemark di Google Earth). It’s a very small village whose name comes from the Latin Mons Scutarius or Mons Scutaris, even if the settlement is much more ancient and dates back to the first stages of the Etrurian civilization.
Moving along the narrow and impressive alleyways, constantly lashed by a strong wind, it’s almost possibile to breathe all the historical events, some of them dramatic, which saw Montescudaio being dominated firstly by Pisa and then being conquered by the Medici of Florence. But, in any case, the attention is mainly drawn to the marvellous view at 360°: go there when the sun is dipping below the sea, sit on the comfortable benches in the square in front of the XII-Century Benedectine churchand enjoy the wonderful view, eventually sipping a glass of excellent Montescudaio fine wine coming from the wine shop “Bibere”. Invigorated by the wine, you can take the car and cover 2-3 kilometers so as to get to Guardistallo (Placemark di Google Earth). Placed on a crest parallel to the sea, the
village is named after the Lombardics who assigned it to the castle that they built, around the VII century, on the top of the hill where lays te town. Like Montescudaio, even Guardistallo, in the year 1400, after being under Pisa for 4 centuries, became part of the Grand Duchy of Florence. Unlike the “twin”, though, the following centuries were prosperous so that, in 1870, around the central Plebiscito Square,  the inhabitants built a new church entitled to Saint Lorenzo and Agata and, almost at the same time, Villa Elena, originally residence of the Marchionneschi –one of the most important families- and currently elegant, comfortable and cheap hotel that I would strongly suggest for a nice staying. Even here, as well as in Montescudaio, the view of the surrounding hills and the sea on the background is the main attraction, but you will surely enjoy also a pleasant walk along the narrow streets of Guardistallo, above all if you find the one that, after a dark porch, leads to the famous “Osteria del Pinzagrilli”: if
you avoid getting there on Wednesday -it’s closed- and you book by telephone (0586/655350), you will enjoy its tasty and marvellous typical Tuscan dishes. Soups, crepes, boar, and meat serves with truffles or mushrooms and home-made cakes that will make you forget I am sure- the bad weather of the afternoon, especially if, from the tettace of the restaurant, looking at the sea of Cecina, you will enjoy the view of a starry sky that promises a warm and sunny tomorrow.